Hot Dogs in the City!

Summer has officially arrived as of June 21.  With the Barbecues, longer days and shorter schedules, there are additional things to be savvy about when it comes to keeping your dog safe.  Just to name a few!…..

1. Foxtails! The dreaded tiny weed that causes big,big problems.  These nasty buggers get into your dogs ears, eyes, between the pads of her paws, and can even travel internally! To be safe, avoid areas where foxtails populate.  The brush is getting drier and drier which makes them  more visible. What makes them especially dangerous is their ability to travel.  Their shape allows them to go lots of places within your dogs body and the potential for harm can be severe.  Symptoms that your dog may have picked up a foxtail include shaking the head/ears, rubbing the eye, with obvious discomfort or pain. Pads with an advancing foxtail can have a red, swollen bump, perhaps oozing due to developing infection.  If your dog shows any of these signs, get to your vet without delay. An example of a foxtail:

2. Heat!  Everyone has heard a horror story of a dog who has perished inside a hot car. This is a tragic event and there are laws now prohibiting leaving dogs in a car when the thermometer reaches a certain temperature and above.  However there are other circumstances requiring you to be careful and act as an advocate for your dog’s safety. When the days heat up, pavements and sidewalks can become very hot, resulting in burned and blistered paws. It’s a good idea to place your palm on the ground for a few seconds to determine how warm it may be; if it’s uncomfortable for you, imagine how your dog feels, so it’s time to head for shade or home!  When it’s warm out, boots or shoes made for dogs are not a good idea. Dogs perspire through their pads, so by putting shoes on you are significantly limiting your dog’s ability to cool herself.  Those of us with “short faced” breeds (formally known as brachycephalic breeds that include Boston terriers, French bulldogs, English bulldogs and pugs, just to name a few) have to be especially diligent with the heat in ANY situation. Due to that short muzzle that creates extra tissue within the mouth and throat, less air can pass over the tongue and respiration can be come difficult, therefore making cooling the body temperature of these dogs extremely difficult. PLEASE be careful and use common sense with these guys, death is a very real possibility in a heat exhaustion situation.  If your dog does show signs of heat exhaustion or stroke, call your vet immediately!  Signs of heat stroke include excess panting and salivation, hyperventilation,weakness,confusion and perhaps pale or grey gums. The final stage is coma, followed by death, so this is nothing to mess around with. Please keep the temperature in mind when you are out and about with your pooch!

3. Fireworks!  July 4th is a fun, relaxing nostalgic holiday filled with food and relaxation, however for your dog, all of that sounds good until you get to the fireworks after sundown. Most dogs are just terrified of fireworks. The sound of just one long whistle as the fireworks start their descent to earth is enough to convince a dog the end of days is upon us.  For your dog’s safety and comfort, leave her home if you are attending any events with fireworks. And leaving a radio or TV on loud enough to hopefully block out some fireworks noise can be helpful. Some vets will prescribe sedatives for those dogs who really melt down on July 4th so if this sounds like your dog, you may want to make an appointment with your vet before July.  Shelters and Animal Control facilities  always acquire more dogs on July 4th as sometimes a panicked dog may do amazing things to escape the fireworks and escape from your property. It is for this reason to be sure your dog is secure in your home if you do go out, never leave her outside. Better yet, having family member or friend stay with your dog while you attend any holiday functions is ideal. Of course there is always daycare or boarding with us as well! And ALWAYS be sure your dog has an ID tag, and a microchip!

These are just a few things to consider while enjoying the summer….the bottom line is use common sense and listen to your dog! Dogs are masters at observing us, so we owen them the same attention!

Summer Woofs and Love!~

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Why I’m not a fan of Dogparks

This is a subject that I have given a lot of thought about, with respect to being frank about a destination that is so incredibly popular yet, in my opinion, isn’t the best place for a lot of dogs. I am referring to dog parks, a fairly recent concept that in it’s basic form is not a bad idea, however what occurs too often is the equivalent of a canine mosh pit without security guards.

The upside of the dog park is that it is (hopefully) a safely enclosed environment. Free of foxtails, debris and standing water. But past those elements is where the trouble starts. The mosh pit has provided an all access pass to all comers. Meaning, any dog can just show up. No behavior standards, to age limits, no health requirements. Too often, frazzled exhausted dog owners bring their dog to the park to “burn off steam”, which in theory is not an issue, however when that dog who is blowing off the steam is a 70 pound playground bully and that frazzled owner is on his or her cell phone and not taking responsibility for that playground bully,that’s where things can go bad. Add to this the fact that a lot of folks just are not educated on canine body language (no, a wagging tail is not a clear sign of a friendly dog, just for starters), this is a recipe for a very bad situation. Dogs often become over-stimulated in this environment, lacking the ability to know when they need a break therefore creating myriad of behavior issues that can sometimes escalate into aggressive behavior, both offensive and defensive. Coupled with balls being thrown which can create or build already existing resource guarding behavior, and the very good possibility of contracting a pathogen like giardia which is no fun for anyone.

Adult dogs with appropriate social etiquette in this environment can often navigate the bullies, however this environment is no place for a puppy. Puppies have several “Critical Periods” where all experiences, both negative and positive can have a lasting impact on your dog’s temperament. That said, I would not advise any puppy even putting a paw in a dog park until they are over 1 year old.

My suggestion for exercising and educating your dogs, both young and mature would be ideally activities you both do together,and with other family members. Long hikes on leash (with a gradual move to off leash with dogs who are socially appropriate and in areas approved for off leash dogs) are a great activity for everyone. It gets both of you outside and you get to spend time as a unit and dogs *love* this plus it enhances your bond!

Classes! classes!classes! Never stop learning! Obedience is so important, particularly if you wish to advance to off-leash hikes. Fun sport classes like agility, rally-o and k9Nosework are fantastic ways to work your dogs brain and body. Finding the right trainer can really help you if this is new territory. Have you ever worked on a particularly challenging mental task, then felt completely spent after wards? Dogs have the same response to mental challenges as well. The options are endless here.

And, at the risk of sounding like a icky used car salesman, a good quality daycare (yep, shameless plug there) can be a good way to allow your dog to play in a safe supervised environment. Do your homework here, ask friends for references, online reviews can be helpful but certainly not purely objective.

Hopefully this information has given you useful information that can help you make some informed decisions regarding how and where your dog socializes and exercises. Some folks never have an issue at the Dog Park, which is great, however witnessing a serious dog fight is very traumatic,for both you and your dog, even if your dog isn’t involved. And behavior issues can be very challenging to manage and work through. If you must use a dog park, go on off hours, avoid busy times, and if a dog arrives who doesn’t seem friendly or waves a red flag, trust your gut and get your dog out of there. And head up to the Redwoods for a hike! With an obedience session on the way!

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About “Dominance”…….

wish I could take credit for this, but I can only aspire to be as articulate and knowledgeable as Patricia McConnell. Luckliy, due to the beauty of the internet, I can post her excellent article here and share the wealth of knowledge. This is fabulous, enjoy!

The Concept Formerly Described as “Dominance”

Ah, here I go into the fray. Picture my loins girded. In some ways I’d love to avoid this topic altogether, because as most of you know, conversations about “the D word” can sometimes turn into arguments that make the American health care debate seem like a day at the spa. (I was going to say “like a tea party,” but then . . . )  But I think the issue is important, and deserves consideration. So EEEEE HAH! here we go.

This post will only be a beginning, because the topic of “dominance” and social relationships is actually a big one, and I’d like to facilitate a thoughtful, meaningful discussion about it in dogs. As you all know, some people think that just about all of our problems with dogs relate to “dominance” and advise owners to “be the alpha dog.” At the other end of the spectrum, some argue that “dominance” and even the concept of “social status” are completely irrelevant to a dog’s behavior, and that the terms should be struck from our vocabulary. I don’t agree with either extremes of the spectrum (but I’m a lot closer to one than the other!), so hang onto your hats, here we go . . .

First of all, it would be good to start with a definition. The simple definition of ‘dominance,’ as the term is used by the general public is something like: “control or command over others.” However, (and this is a huge “however”) that is NOT the definition as the term is used by people who study animal behavior, the ones who first coined the term to describe a certain kind of social relationship in non-human animals. In ethological terms, “dominance” refers to “priority access to a preferred, limited resource“. In other words, if there’s only one really great table open at a restaurant, who is going to get it? You, or the famous actress standing beside you?

Relating this to dogs, if someone dropped a pork chop between two dogs, who would get it? If you repeated this numerous times and the same dog got it every time, that dog was described in the literature as “dominant” over the other IF both dogs wanted the food equally.  The “dominant” dog could get priority access to the food in a variety of ways; s/he could simply look toward the other dog with a hard stare, could try to be the fastest one every time, or could fight for it. The problem is that fights are dangerous if you are a predator who can rip open elk hide with your mouths. (For a reminder of the power of the canine jaw, try making a gash in a leather purse with your teeth. If you are successful, please send video….heck, send one if you’re not successful!)

The potential of injury in social predators, is the reason that many argue why social hierarchies developed in animals like wolves. (Yes, I know dogs aren’t wolves. Bear with me here.) If every time one had to fight for what one wanted, the genes that predisposed an individual to fight would be eliminated out of the gene pool. That’s the explanation for the existence of social hierarchies: they allow individuals to get ‘priority access’ without having to fight for a resource every time it was available. Note that serious fights do happen in some species: In many ungulates (hoofed animals like elk for example), the males fight every breeding season for priority access to females. They are continually challenged by other males, and spend so much energy guarding their females that even if they aren’t killed or injured in a fight, (it happens, but not commonly), they sometimes die over the winter, having been unable to spend enough time feeding in fall to put on body fat to get them through the winter. However, before they are mature,  young male ungulates often spend years in “bachelor herds,” in which they may play at fighting, but no one individual has priority access to anything else during that period. Their food is widely dispersed and the only ‘resource’ they need to compete over is females during a breeding season. As this Elk examples shows,  a ‘resource’ can be many things, from a pork chop, to the best sleeping place, to a female in heat. But, remember, the “D” word is about “priority access to a resource,” not about anything else.

Here’s what “dominance” ISN’T: It has nothing to do with decision-making about the actions of a group or one other individual. There is no relationship in the literature between who decides when to move on, where to go or what to do. Period. (Bookmark this point!)

It has nothing to do with “who’s in front.” (In prey animals, the ‘dominant’ member of the group is often found in the middle of the herd if the group is in an area that might be dangerous.)

It is not fixed and immutable: Who “has dominance” can vary in time (as one individual ages for example), in space (one individual can have it in one area and not another) and in context (perhaps one individual with dominance doesn’t like pork chops.) In some species it appears to be linear (as in chickens, for example, in which if A is over B, and B is over C, then A is always over C). In most social mammals, it is non-linear and much, much more fluid and complicated.

It is highly influenced by resource distribution: “Clumped, high quality resources” tend to exaggerate social hierarchies, which probably explains why captive wolves appear to be absolutely obsessed with hierarchy, while wild wolves appear to be more relaxed about issues related to social status. (Keep this in mind for later when we talk about studies on feral dogs versus owned dogs.)

It is usually maintained by visual or chemical displays that are innate and are species-specific. It can be achieved by an initial fight in which one individual wins and the other backs off, or, more commonly, by nothing more than the types of display specific to that species. (Think high tail, erect ears and forward posture of a captive wolf). If the individuals continue to fight over a resource, then there is not an established hierarchy.

It is not a relationship desired equally by all individuals in a group. In complex social societies, not everyone is equally motivated to be first in line for the goodies. In our species, for example, some people would love the status associated with being famous, while others would consider a guarantee of a great table at a restaurant to be a poor trade for losing their privacy and would avoid it at all costs. In some species, high status is associated with increased responsibility, which can be dangerous and burdensome.

That’s a good starting place for our discussion. In my next post, I’m going to write about how all this might relate to domestic dogs. But I will say here that the misuse of the term “dominance” in dog training is so pervasive that it causes ethologists like me to want to poke pencils in our eyes. The examples are endless: “Your dog won’t come when you call unless he accepts you as alpha!” (Uh, not relevant, see above.) “Teach your dog a “Dominance Down” and he’ll respect you in the morning!” (Uh, not relevant, see above….). I suspect that much of this comes from the two different definitions of dominance used by the biologists versus the general public. I also think, although I admit to just guessing, that our species loves the idea of control, and anything that suggests we can get it easily is seductive. Whatever the reason, the mis-use of the concept of “dominance” is pervasive.

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Canine Nosework

We are big believers in finding activities that both you and your dog can be participants in.  Canine Nosework is an  activity gaining popularity that puts a new spin on training and having fun with your dog.  The premise is that your dog “searches” and “alerts” for an object hidden in either boxes (for beginners) to other objects (more advanced, more challenging).  What makes this activity exciting is that instead of  you giving the dog direction, you trust your dog to “find it”.  This can really be a great confidence builder for a dog who tends to be anxious.  Nosework is also a great activity for dogs with a history of aggression or fear of other dogs as each “search” is done individually.  The dogs never have contact with one another, so each dog can search without the added social pressure or distraction of other dogs in the room.  Most importantly, Nosework increases the your bond.  Its a enriching activity and the dogs are never “wrong”, and there are no corrections. And isn’t that why we got dogs in the first place? To enjoy them and share our worlds.  Now go “find it!”

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